The Saga of Simplicity 8523 – View F


Simplicity 8523: Anything But Simple. Why? Because of fit.

I’m sewing my first top. Or rather, I am trying to sew my first top. It’s going well. The muslin has a very nice neckline, and I managed to insert my first facings almost without a problem. The darts are straight and don’t pucker. Overall, I should be proud. I am proud.

And also appalled. I knew when I picked this pattern that it was very simple and boxy. The top falls almost straight from the underarms to the hem. When I saw that the waistline had 11″ of ease (11″!), I decided to cut to fit my bust and not to taper out to the larger size at my hips. With 11″ of ease, I figured I’d just hem the top to hit me above the widest point of my hip and that all would be good.

That was my first mistake. The results (bunching and bagging) were readily apparent in my muslin (of which I will not post pictures yet, thank you very much).

Thanks to the good folks at Pattern Review, I’m receiving a bit of a master class in how to make adjustments. I’ve even had to retrace the pattern from scratch and use other, uncut pieces to add back in the wider hip and grade outward.


In which I channel my grandfather and learn to draft things. Or trace them. Close enough.

Now I’m busily lowering the waistline on my new pattern. Then I have to raise the hem and taper again (so as not to lose the ease I added in tracing the size 12 hemline). After that, I may have to do a swayback adjustment. Then, there is the second (or second and third) muslin.

All for a super-simple v-neck.

2 thoughts on “The Saga of Simplicity 8523 – View F

  1. Brooke says:

    Sometimes, the simplest designs are the most difficult to fit. Keep at it! Every project will teach you something to make you better. =)

  2. demoiselle says:

    Thank you so much for leaving a comment! My very first. I am keeping at it, for sure. Right now I’m truing the grain for my second muslin. I leave for a family wedding tomorrow, and had hoped to have my shirt ready to go by then. Unfortunately, I don’t think that I will complete both a muslin (or two, if I need a swayback adjustment, too) and the actual shirt in time for our departure.

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